Dinner in the country

Over the weekend, I spent some much needed time nestled in the country with my parents. And of course, no day is complete without a good meal (in this case, many days and many meals.) We began with cocktail hour(s), progressed to dinner, finished with desert. Friday was simple and delicious lamp chops, with local corn and salad. And saturday’s dinner included one of the most delicious deserts imaginable. My mother used to let me have it for breakfast, saying it was health food–and it is, sort of. Make this and you will never think of peaches or bread pudding the same way.

Saturday’s Menu:
Gin and tonics
Grilled flank steak
Roasted potatoes
Pickled cucumber salad with red onion and cilantro
Peach bread pudding

Marinated flank steak**

Marinade:
2/3 cup olive oil
6 tbls. Lemon juice (2 medium lemons)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4-6 tbls. herbs (we used oregano and thyme)

1. Mix marinade with fork.
2. Score both sides of steak and pour marinade over meat.
3. Marinade at room temperature for 1 hour. After 1 hour, if time allows, put in refrigerator for 2-3 more hours.
4. Grill until done.

**This marinade is from Molly Finn’s Summer Feasts (p. 218). A classic cookbook in our house.

Peach Bread Pudding with Brandy Jam Sauce**

12 ½-inch-think slices of stale French bread
6 tbsl. unsalted butter
8 small peaches, skinned, pitted, thickly sliced
3 large eggs
½ cup honey
2 cups milk
¼ tsp. grated nutmeg
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tbl. sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and put on kettle of water to boil.
2. Select a low-sided 6-cup baking dish and place the bread slices in the bottom, cutting them so they will cover the entire surface. (You need more or less than 12 slices.) Remove the bread and set aside.
3. Generously butter the dish and cover its bottom with the peach slices.
4. Generously butter (use it all) the cut bread slices and place them on top of the peaches.
5. With a fork, beat the eggs and honey together. Pour this into the milk and mix well. Stir in the nutmeg and vanilla.
6. Carefully strain the milk mixture into the dish. The buttered bread may float up. Sprinkle the butter tops of the bread with sugar.
7. Place the dish in a larger pan, put in the oven, then pour into the larger pan boiling water.
8. Bake until the bread starts turning golden and a knife comes out clean when inserted, 40-45 minutes.
9. Serve at room temperature or cold or warm with Brandy Jam Sauce.
Serves 6-8

Brandy Jam Sauce

½ cup peach jam
¼ cup water
2 tlbs. Lemon juice
¼ cup brandy
1. Combine jam and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to reduce slightly, about a minute. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and brandy. Allow to cool.

Makes about ¾ cup

**This recipe is from Lee Bailey’s Cooking for Friends (p. 61)

Dumpster Diving

This morning, as I was putting away the dishes from last night, I realized that I was missing the screw-on cap to my beautiful vintage cocktail shaker. After searching the kitchen—it was no where to be found—I came to the conclusion that I must have accidentally thrown it out. My only option was to search in the garbage. Having recently lost a slew of important small items, I was determined to locate the cap.

About the trash: We take out the trash once a week and only once a week. I find this bizarre, but that’s the system roommates have in place; I just moved in and am not in a position to enforce my own system—yet. Therefore, we tend to have old pungent garbage which is usually only exposed when the metal lid is lifted. Also, unfortunately, I had cleaned out the fridge last night. Still, I proceeded to dig through the trash, in search of said item, sifting through un-identifiable garbage, coffee grinds, moldy pureed eggplant, ancient slimy cilantro, old tomato sauce, etc…. And I was victorious! I have safely rescued the cap!

To be honest, it wasn’t anywhere near as gross as I thought it would be. Having accepted the reality that I would be touching disgusting slimy food with my fingers, I rather enjoyed the adventure.

Intrigued? A round up of related links:

The New Classics: Quinoa

The inspiration for this salad was my blossoming mint plant. Now that I don’t have anyone to drink Sidecars with :( I haven’t been using as much mint. I knew the plant was feeling neglected and needed harvesting! I also had lots of random leftovers in the refrigerator. Still, I was in the mood to create. What resulted was divine. Fresh, light but filling, and so efficient!

As I’m facing this new chapter and trying to figure out how to make the most of what is before me, this salad exhibits itself as the pleasure that can be derived from gathering what is before you and taking action.

A quick note about quinoa (which is a small miracle in kernel form–though it cooks and tastes like a grain, it is genetically related to leafy greens; it is a complete protein, rich in fiber, magnesium, iron and lots more.) In this recipe, I boiled the quinoa like I would pasta (as Bittman says, “Until it’s done.”) I’ve also cooked quinoa with a method that combined boiling and steaming. I must say that I didn’t taste much of a difference. Maybe the steamed was a little flufier…. but the steaming method is also much more messy. I think I’ll boil from now on, also because you can infuse different flavors this way, see below.)

Ingredients:

Salad:
1 cup quinoa
Approx. 1 inch cube of ginger cut into chunks
½ head chopped radicchio
1 chopped nectarine
Handful of chopped mint
2/3 cup of cooked corn
1 tbl chopped garlic
¼ tsp. chopped jalapeño pepper
Vinaigrette:
2 tbl. Olive oil
Juice of one lime
1 tbl. Honey
Salt and pepper

1. Measure one cup of dry quinoa into a saucepan and cover with water by at least 3 inches. Some of the quinoa will float, which is okay.
2. Add chunks of ginger and big pinch of salt.
3. Bring to a boil, and then simmer in a low boil until done to taste.
4. While quinoa is cooking, chop ingredients and make vinaigrette.
5. Combine while quinoa is still hot. Serve warm of cold.

Serves 2 as main course, or 4 as side dish (would be a great side dish to lemon-herb grilled chicken!)

Angry Pork Stew

The other night I came home and created Angry Pork Stew. I’d had a hot, frustrating and frenzied day. As if in a trance, I walked through the grocery store. I was a woman with a mission. I wanted tangy and sweet, full-bodied flavor that refused to apologize. I chose my main ingredients (pork chops, an orange, radicchio and an Argentinian Malbec) and charged toward the kitchen.

What resulted was cathartic, very flavorful and kept well for many days, though it would have been better if I hadn’t over-cooked the pork. I suggest making it when you’re hungry and need to feel empowered!

Angry Pork Stew

Ingredients:
Pork chops (I used 3 boneless)
Salt and pepper
2-4 tbls. Olive oil
3 shallots
2 cloves of garlic
One orange
2 tbls. (?) sherry vinegar
2 tbls.. (?) red wine
1/3 cup chopped prunes
½ head of radicchio

Serves 2

1. Salt and pepper pork chops then brown in olive oil quickly. Set aside in a bowl with the prunes.
2. Pour off half the remaining olive oil and replace with fresh olive oil.
3. Add shallots and cloves of chopped garlic. Cook until translucent.
4. Squeeze in juice of the orange and scrape out some of the pulp, mix, and cook until everything seems to be talking to each other.
5. Pour in sherry vinegar. Again, cook until everything is just mixed and mingling.
6. Pour in wine, and reduce until alcohol seems to have cooked off.
7. Reduce to a very low simmer. Add pork chops, prunes, and radicchio. Integrate, then cover and cook until done (8-15 minutes).
8. ** If you over cook the pork chops, as I did, the meat regains a good deal of moisture if you cut of the chops into chunks, exposing the meat to more of the sauce.

I’ll add updates and more precise measurements next time I make this.

Adventures in the archive

Newspapers may be dying. Libraries may be struggling. We may be getting dumber. But the archive lives on.

The endlessly fascinating Refractal engages in a scavanger hunt among the treasures of digitized archives. Though Increasingly available on the internet, it takes a true cybernaut, an explorer with dusty boots and quick wit, to venture into the depths of these archives, seeking information few eyes have ever seen. Thanks to the internet and Refractal, the treasures are now laid out on a silver plate:

Miss Frank E Buttolph’s legacy truly does grace those epicurean cybernauts who wish to move from place to place, smelling the tables of the past. Her collection of over 9,000 menus from the years 1880-1910 have been published in an online database by the New York Public Library (constituting the largest collection of historical menus in the world). So comprehensive was the collection that an author profiling Miss Buttolph for a 1906 edition of the New York Times magazine wrote:

“Miss Buttolph is making history for the year 2000 which, should our present carnivorous natures by that time merge into a diet of mild and milky, will hold this generation up as an example of brute force that should annihilate all our virtues and leave us in the eyes of our descendants a race of horror and greed, a pack of flesh-eating outcasts remarkable only for our gastronomic endurance. (((wow, if only the NYT still wrote sentences like that))) [1906 New York Times Profile of Miss Buttolph PDF]

(The menu from the Hotel Manhattan, my favorite for its pure banality, is astounding.)

Read more

The New Classics: Lentils

For dinner, m and I had lentils, pineapple-corn chutney and Fage. Easy, flavorful and satisfying, this meal is also healthy and cheap. I find that I gravitate to these flavors when I feel anxious or anchor-less. There is something very simple and grounding about preparing and eating this food. I’ve been meaning to post about it and share the love.

Like a triangle, strength comes from three connected points: lentils, salsa, yogurt.

The lentils: cooked within an Indian flavor palate. These are nothing like your mother’s lentil soup or even your lentil salad. The flavor is earthy and spicy, buttery rich in a supporting, fortifying manner.

1 cup lentils (the smaller the better, I like to get green French Lentils)

2 chunks of ginger, about the size of quarters

2 large cloves of garlic

5 cardamom pods

1 tbl. mustard seeds

3 cloves

1/2 tsp. chai masala

Wash the lentils, then place them in a saucepan. Add ginger and garlic (both finely chopped or pressed), spices, and a few strong grinds of a pepper mill. Pour water into saucepan so that the lentils are covered by an inch. Bring to a slow boil, then turn down the heat as low as it will go and simmer, adding a pinch of salt from time to time as the lentils soften and to taste. Cook for 20-30 minutes, or until the lentils are done.

Once the lentils are done to your liking, stir in 2 tbl of butter. Don’t skip this. The lentils won’t be anywhere nears as good.

**This recipe is based the recipe, “Simplest Dal” in Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything Vegetarian.**

The chutney: spicy is the only requirement. I tend to mix up the chutney/salsa ingredients, depending on what I have around and what’s in season. As now it is summer, the height of mint and corn, I was compelled to include these flavors. I also had a pineapple that was very ready to be eaten. I think the fruit chutney work well especially with the lentils, which are quite solid in their flavor. Sweet-spicy chutney adds an element of light-hearted exictement, of crunch and twists to the steady lentils.

1 thinly diced pineapple (canned is fine)

juice of two limes (if you’re looking to cut costs, 1 lime is fine and add some orange juice or lemon juice)

scant 1 tbl. of brown sugar

big handful of chopped mint

big handful of chopped cilantro

1-2 cups of corn or to taste

1 tsp chopped habanero pepper (don’t use the seeds! the habanero is not a pepper to be taken lightly. It is intense but not painful; it is very spicy, be forewarned.)

1 tsp. mustard seeds

one large chunk of ginger, thinly thinly diced

salt and pepper to taste

The yogurt: greek yogurt is best for this. If cutting costs, any yogurt will do. But Fage is so thick and creamy. It really is the mortar that ties the flavors together.

Enjoy!

*New habit: After squeezing the juice, don’t throw away the limes! Add them to a pitcher of water or use them in gin and tonics.

Dining on the farm

Last night, I enjoyed two hours of eating at a benefit dinner for Columbia County Bounty, an organization that promotes and supports “networking connections between local agricultural producers and culinary businesses” in New York’s Hudson Valley. From what I gather, their main objective is to raise awareness of local producers and facilitate connections within the business and farming community. I’m still a little unclear as to why this takes a lot of money. But hey, everything does. As it turns out, one of the co-chairs is our neighbor (!) so hopefully I can understand a little better what’s going on when I meet him. Chef David Robinson of Bezalel Gables wrote a great comment this morning explaining some of the resources and activities that Columbia County Bounty is providing and initiating, (see comments section for his full comment):

Thanks to Columbia County Bounty, as chefs we get to put superior, fresher product on the plate without thousands of food miles on the food and local farms can sell portions for 100-300 to a restaurant or caterer, as opposed to just standing all day in a Farmer’s Market hoping to sell to a family of 4. The hope is not only increased economical viability for the farms, but incredible eating for everyone. What has become clear to me, is that the same pride the growers and producers have in their products, the chefs have in preparing their dishes.

Last night’s event was great PR for all the farms, caterers and restaurants. What follows are some highlights of the evening. Also, check out the flickr stream for a visual tour.

Top three:

Ancho-Fired BBQ Pulled Pork Crostini with Cajun Slaw & Root-Beer Mustard Sauce by Georgia Ray’s Kitchen (Yes! As complexly delicious as it sounds! Outdoor flavor with sweet, sour, spicy on the picnic tables mingled with tender meat and crispy toast. Exciting and gone before you knew what hit you!)

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Smoked trout salad with homemade Ranch dressing by Bezalel Gables. (Excellent presentation and the trout was incredibly fresh and oh-so-smoked to perfection.)

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Tarte Provençal by Stissing House. (With what I think was a corn pudding bread as the bottom layer, the whole creation seemed to encompass all the glory of summer’s flavors.)

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Best presentation: Chocolate fountain with fresh fruit and/or potato chips by The Chocolate Moose.

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Also incredibly enjoyable:

Mexican Spring Rolls by Mexican Radio (so spicy and fresh!)
Beer by the Chatham Brewing Company
Coffee (and chocolate!) milk by Ronnybrook Farm
Pastries by Chatham Village Cake Shoppe and Patisserie

And of course, oh Lord, of course, the cheese. Coach Farm’s goat cheese, especially the Green Peppercorn Brick, is phenomenal, one of the small miracles of dairy on this earth. They also had a block of fresh cheese, “fresh” as in it was made less than a week ago, which was mellow with an interesting texture. Of course, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company was there, who make a wonderful Camembert. (I’ve been to their farm a few times to visit the sheep. It’s a great place to visit with kids.) There was also another dairy farm present, but I’m afraid I didn’t get their name…

In sum, the cheese was out of this world, some of the food was really delicious and exciting, and the produce from the farms was perfect. I think that some of the chefs could have made bolder choices; that is, there was a lot of fresh vegetables with a tomato base sauce or other traditional summer stand-bys. These recipes good, but a bit boring, presenting ingredients in a familiar and sure-to-be-tasty manner, as opposed to best showing off unique flavors and unexpected joys. Then again, this dinner was about the bounty of Columbia County, not the prowess of its chefs. And the dinner certainly did a good job at showing off all that the farms around here have to offer.

More importantly, in an ideal world, I wish this event could have free/more affordable so that more people could have attended. To say the least, the room lacked diversity both economic and racial. Fresh food should not be considered luxury.

If you’re ever in the Hudson Valley or at a farmer’s market in New York City, where I believe some of these farms also sell their produce and cheese, pick some up! Who needs California, anyway?

(By the way, as I write this, cows are mooing.)

Blueberries for Sal

This afternoon I picked blueberries at the Berry Farm. Right before our picking adventure, I read Blueberries for Sal, a book about a human mother and child and a bear mother and cub gathering berries for the winter. I always loved this book, and it put me in the mood, as I was picking in order to store. M and i picked almost 5 lbs! The Canning Project begins tomorrow. Oh, it will be so wonderful to have these berries exist as jam in the cold of winter!

Aside: The Thin Man

Speaking of cocktail hour…

I don’t know if most people my age grew up experiencing cocktail hour. (Do you have your own memories of cocktail hour? Make a comment!) In my memory, cocktail hour was always marvelous. I drank tonic and lime and felt grown up. Now, I appreciate not only the cocktail but also its preparation. Measuring out the liquor, muddling the mint, whose scent slowly creeps out into the surrounding air, sharing what I have made… I believe the care and concentration of creating, really creating, a small delight each night is part of the beauty, the thrilling seduction of the cocktail. An act of creation requires time and patience; after all, good things come to those who wait.

And so, without further ado, here for your viewing pleasure, is a medley of clips from The Thin Man (thanks, Countrygirltori!), a series of movies that I watched over and over again as a child. This is where I first gained the circles of understanding that define what it means to imbibe a cocktail in style:

Cocktail Hour: The Sidecar

Around dusk each evening my mind wanders to cocktail shakers and ice. Summer, winter, every season has its taste. This summer I have been partial to the Sidecar, or rather, a Sidecar re-imagined, A lá Americaine.

The creation myth of the Sidecar, like that of most cocktails, is apocryphal. Most everyone agrees that the classic Sidecar rose to popularity around World War I either in Paris or London, and traditionally combines Cognac, Cointreau, and lemon juice. Personally, I will subscribe to the view that the Sidecar (note: a sidecar is a one wheeled-attachment to a motorcycle) was named as such because it takes the one who drinks it “for a ride.”

These days, I make what I believe to be the ultimate Sidecar. Once upon a time, I happened to be having cocktail hour at the Bar Americain (of Bobby Flay fame), where simple American classics are turned into indulgent–and amazingly exquisite–dishes. (Examples: Roasted Corn Soup, Crispy Okra; Gulf Shrimp and Grits; Boston Lettuce, Bacon, Poached Egg and Buttermilk-Blue Cheese dressing; Red Pepper Crab Cake, Red Cabbage Slaw, Basil Sauce…)

Their drink menu is also inventively American, and this cocktail caught my eye. Our waiter exclaimed that he loved the drink and had been making it at home all the time; he happily shared the recipe. Below, my explanations and paraphrasing:

Combine equal parts Bourbon (or Whiskey), Contreau (or Triple Sec), and lemon juice

Muddle generous amount of mint and and bit of sugar in a glass

Shake alcohol mixture vigorously with lots of ice

Strain mixture into glass

Serve neat, (if you dare)

And so a tradition is born.